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Archives of Tajikistan



So let’s head towards China. We’ve got a visa, all we need is balls. As to take our motorbikes inside is way beyond our budget, we are going to simply ride along the semi-clandestine fence that the Chinese have recently installed into the Tajik territory. The day is fiercely bright. East off Murghab we find […]

In The Middle Of Bloody Nowhere

Let’s cut to the chase: this is real yak blood left to rot in the middle of the street, and an actual yak hoof left to rot in the dumpster. Both nothing short of boring details in the life of Murghab. A town sitting in the middle of bloody nowhere. Last night, when we rolled […]


My KTM is the first to meet its  Doppelganger. In the hostel from Khorog, where there is the Iranian in the photo, a brave guy who is traveling on bicycles with his new wife. After their bikes were stolen in Tbilisi,  their extremely generous couchsurfing host offered them 1500 euro in cash to replace the […]

Afghanistan Takes The Prize

This is where we camped. It’s our first night  on the Wakhan corridor. Let us zoom in. This narrow stretch of land lies between Tajikistan, Afghanistan and Pakistan. What we can see over the river Panj is surely more charming than what we have going on on our side. And it’s not what we would […]

Collateral Pleasures

(by Ana) I’m, as you well know, a rookie motorcyclist. I left Bucharest less than two months ago with less than 600 km done on a motorbike. By car I have clocked even less, perhaps a little over 150 km, driven more than a decade ago. In May I had zero traffic experience, and I […]