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Archive of month: September 2013



So let’s head towards China. We’ve got a visa, all we need is balls. As to take our motorbikes inside is way beyond our budget, we are going to simply ride along the semi-clandestine fence that the Chinese have recently installed into the Tajik territory. The day is fiercely bright. East off Murghab we find […]

In The Middle Of Bloody Nowhere

Let’s cut to the chase: this is real yak blood left to rot in the middle of the street, and an actual yak hoof left to rot in the dumpster. Both nothing short of boring details in the life of Murghab. A town sitting in the middle of bloody nowhere. Last night, when we rolled […]

Happiness Hurts

Rains wakes us up. Then a roar of shouting – must be some shepherds passing by. Before we could decide to check out the weather, something hits our tent. So I pull the zipper. A bleak blizzard is consuming the valley, now mountains almost invisible through the fog. My stomach is my emotional gauge and […]