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Archive of month: August 2013


Sand Trials

The sun proves capricious and cruel: hiding behind clouds, yet fiercely toning down colors and burning our skin. Every single centimeter that remains exposed, hurts like hell. Our swagger is less dashing. Ana’s riding off-road reveals my brand new girlfriend: disciplined, focused above her usual morning haze. I feel that this is more than an […]


My KTM is the first to meet its  Doppelganger. In the hostel from Khorog, where there is the Iranian in the photo, a brave guy who is traveling on bicycles with his new wife. After their bikes were stolen in Tbilisi,  their extremely generous couchsurfing host offered them 1500 euro in cash to replace the […]

Afghanistan Takes The Prize

This is where we camped. It’s our first night  on the Wakhan corridor. Let us zoom in. This narrow stretch of land lies between Tajikistan, Afghanistan and Pakistan. What we can see over the river Panj is surely more charming than what we have going on on our side. And it’s not what we would […]

Collateral Pleasures

(by Ana) I’m, as you well know, a rookie motorcyclist. I left Bucharest less than two months ago with less than 600 km done on a motorbike. By car I have clocked even less, perhaps a little over 150 km, driven more than a decade ago. In May I had zero traffic experience, and I […]

Postcards From Dushanbe

This bit of our adventure starts in front of a closed border. 50 km off Samarkand two young soldiers are holding their AK47s in front of us. Wordless. A man comes waving: we learn that this border is not open for foreigners. So we will take a long detour across the southern provinces of Uzbekistan, […]