But our troubles were far from being over. Let’s say that the rain spared us while we fixed Paul’s second flat tyre in less than 24 hours. Vindicated by the cheetah sighting, he had disregarded Vittal’s omen – in this desolated land, thou shalt avoid flat tires only if driving under influence. Problem fixed, Jon insisted we crack open some beers. Then, as soon as we rolled east, all hell broke loose. The Hoanib was by now overflowing even upstream, Ongongo campsite was flooded, the waterfall murky. I’d hate to imagine that if we hadn’t made the u-turn, we could had been trapped between the Hoanib and another flowing river!